Post-Storm Roof & Property Walk-Through: 4 Checks to Document Damage

TL;DR: Walk your property within 48 hours of a severe storm. Photograph missing shingles, gutter damage, siding tears, and any interior water stains before tarps or temporary repairs obscure the scene. Time-stamped photos and a written inventory are your best defense if an insurance adjuster visits weeks later.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

Insurance adjusters often arrive days or weeks after a storm, by which time wind-torn shingles may have blown away and minor leaks dry out. A landlord who documents damage immediately—roof, gutters, siding, windows—stands a far better chance of a fair settlement than one who waits.

Okoniq Property Hub lets you attach time-stamped photos to a maintenance log entry the moment you finish your walk-through, preserving the chain of evidence for insurers and contractors alike.

What should I inspect on the roof after a storm?

Start at ground level with binoculars before climbing. Look for missing or curled shingles, exposed nails, dented metal flashing around chimneys, and torn underlayment. Hail often leaves circular dents in metal vents or asphalt granule loss that shows up as dark, dime-sized spots. If you see any of these, photograph from multiple angles and note the approximate count—"six shingles missing on south slope" is more useful than "some damage."

Climbing onto a wet roof is dangerous. If the pitch is steep or you see sagging, call a licensed roofer for a professional inspection. Many insurers require a contractor's estimate anyway, and a $200 inspection fee today can justify a $15,000 claim tomorrow. When you do photograph, capture the damaged area plus a wide shot showing the entire roof plane so the adjuster understands scale.

If you discover a ceiling water stain inside, cross-reference its location with the roof damage above—insurers want proof the interior leak correlates to the exterior breach.

How do I check gutters and downspouts for storm damage?

Walk the perimeter with a notepad. Gutters torn from fascia boards, cracked seams, or sections filled with shingle granules all signal problems. A downspout bent at the elbow or disconnected from the underground drain means runoff now pools against your foundation. Photograph each damaged section and measure any gaps—"18-inch section detached on east elevation" beats "gutter is loose."

Check inside the gutters for standing water or debris dams. A storm that rips off shingles often fills gutters with asphalt granules and organic matter, which clogs downspouts and accelerates rust in steel systems. Clear blockages before the next rain; even temporary repairs like zip-tying a loose bracket can prevent a $3,000 fascia-rot repair six months later.

If you're already planning a basement waterproofing project, note whether downspout discharge points toward the foundation—storm damage is a good excuse to re-route them and solve two problems at once.

What exterior damage beyond the roof matters for an insurance claim?

Siding cracks, dented garage doors, broken window glass, and torn window screens all count. Vinyl siding that's cracked or buckled may not leak today, but wind-driven rain will find the gap. Photograph the damage with a measuring tape in frame: "8-inch crack, 4 feet above grade, west wall." Garage doors dented by hail or flying debris often need full panel replacement, which can run $800–$1,500 per section.

Check HVAC condenser units for hail dents on the top grille and bent fins on the sides. Even minor fin damage reduces airflow efficiency by 10–15%. Document the serial number and model from the unit's data plate, then photograph any dents. If the unit still runs but struggles to cool after the storm, note that symptom in your log—it may be refrigerant-line damage the adjuster can't see.

Trees that fell or dropped large limbs should be photographed where they landed and where they broke from the trunk. If a branch punched through a fence or shed roof, capture both the impact point and the branch itself before removal crews haul it away.

What interior checks confirm storm damage for documentation?

Walk every room with a flashlight, focusing on ceilings, walls near windows, and floors below known roof leaks. Water stains that weren't there before the storm are direct evidence. Photograph each stain with a wide shot showing the room and a close-up with a coin for scale. If the drywall is soft or bulging, don't press it—document as-is and call a remediation contractor if the area exceeds two square feet, which is the EPA threshold for potential mold concern.

Open attic hatches and inspect the underside of the roof deck. Fresh water stains on rafters, wet insulation, or daylight visible through new holes all tie interior damage to the exterior breach. Take photos with your phone's GPS enabled so the metadata proves date and location. If you smell musty odors in the attic, read our guide on attic mold remediation to decide whether you can dry it yourself or need a professional.

Check basement walls and floors for new cracks or dampness, especially if the storm brought heavy rain and your gutters were compromised. A puddle in a corner that was dry last week is worth photographing, even if it dries by the time the adjuster arrives. If your basement dehumidifier is running nonstop after the storm, that's another data point for your claim.

How soon should I file the claim and what records do I send?

Call your insurer within 24–48 hours, even if you're still cataloging damage. Most policies require "prompt notice," and a delay can void coverage if the carrier argues you failed to mitigate further harm. When you call, provide a preliminary list: "Missing shingles, gutter damage, possible interior leak." Follow up with an email attaching your timestamped photos and a written summary—one paragraph per damaged item, each with a photo reference number.

Create a single folder on your phone or computer: Storm_YYYY-MM-DD. Drop every photo, video, contractor estimate, and email into it. If the adjuster requests additional documentation weeks later, you can send the entire folder as a .zip without scrambling to remember what you shot. Landlords who use property-management software often attach these files to a "Storm Damage" maintenance ticket, which auto-sorts by date and property address.

Don't make permanent repairs—only temporary weatherproofing like tarps or plywood over broken windows—until the adjuster gives written approval. Insurers can deny a claim if you replace a roof before they inspect, arguing they can't verify the pre-repair condition. Temporary fixes are expected; permanent ones require a green light.

FAQ

How long do I have to file a storm-damage claim after the event?

Most homeowner and landlord policies require notice within 30–90 days, but state law and your policy's "prompt notice" clause can shorten that window. Call within 48 hours to be safe, even if you haven't finished documenting—you can amend the claim as you find additional damage.

Can I get on the roof myself to inspect, or do I need a contractor?

If the roof is low-slope, dry, and you're comfortable with ladder safety, a careful inspection from the eaves is fine. Steep pitches, wet surfaces, or visible structural sagging require a licensed roofer. Your safety matters more than saving an inspection fee, and a contractor's report carries more weight with insurers anyway.

What if the adjuster says the damage was pre-existing?

Timestamped photos from before the storm—ideally taken during your last annual inspection—prove the roof was intact. If you don't have prior photos, a contractor's written opinion that the damage pattern matches recent wind or hail can counter the adjuster's denial. Appeal in writing and cite the specific policy language covering sudden weather events.

Should I get multiple contractor estimates before filing?

One detailed estimate is enough to file, but two or three help you negotiate if the adjuster's number comes in low. Make sure each estimate itemizes materials, labor, and disposal costs separately—lump-sum bids are harder to defend. Attach all estimates to your claim documentation.

Do I need to document minor cosmetic damage like small dents in siding?

Yes, if you want it covered. Cosmetic damage can worsen over time—today's hairline crack becomes next year's water-infiltration point. Photograph everything; the adjuster will decide what's claimable, but undocumented damage is automatically excluded.

This is educational information, not legal or insurance advice. Review your policy's notice requirements and consult a public adjuster or attorney if your claim is denied or delayed beyond the timeframes stated in your policy.