How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet (Step-by-Step for DIYers)

TL;DR: Most kitchen faucet replacements take 1-2 hours with a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, and plumber's putty. Turn off water at the shutoff valves under the sink, disconnect supply lines and mounting hardware, clean the sink deck, then install the new faucet following the manufacturer's instructions and test for leaks.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

A dripping faucet wastes up to 3,000 gallons per year, and a worn-out kitchen faucet is one of the simplest upgrades to tackle yourself. This guide walks you through removal, prep, and installation so you can replace a kitchen faucet without calling a plumber.

Okoniq Property Hub lets you log each maintenance task with photos, receipts, and notes—track when you replaced the faucet, which model you installed, and when to check supply lines again.

What tools and materials do you need to replace a kitchen faucet?

You'll need a basin wrench (the long-handled tool designed to reach mounting nuts behind the sink), an adjustable wrench, a bucket or towels for residual water, plumber's putty or silicone sealant, and Teflon tape for threaded connections. Most new faucets come with supply lines, but check the package—if yours doesn't, buy braided stainless-steel lines in the correct length (typically 20 or 24 inches).

A flashlight or headlamp is essential because the space under a sink is dim. Wear safety glasses if you're working overhead, and keep a utility knife handy to cut away old caulk or putty. Some faucets require a specific Allen key or screwdriver for set screws; read the instructions before you start so you're not hunting for a tool mid-job.

If your shutoff valves are old or corroded, turn them a quarter-turn now to confirm they close fully. If they leak or don't budge, replace them before you remove the old faucet—this prevents an emergency mid-installation. For guidance on spotting plumbing issues early, see how to diagnose a ceiling water stain.

How do you remove the old kitchen faucet?

Turn off both hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink by rotating them clockwise. Open the faucet handles to release pressure and drain residual water. Place a bucket under the supply lines, then use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the lines from the shutoff valves—expect a few ounces of water to spill.

Next, crawl under the sink with your basin wrench. Locate the mounting nuts that secure the faucet to the sink deck (usually two or three hex nuts threaded onto tailpieces). Position the basin wrench jaws around the nut, then turn counterclockwise—leverage is awkward, so patience matters. Once the nuts are off, lift the old faucet straight up and out. If it's stuck, gently rock it side to side; decades-old putty can act like glue.

Clean the sink deck thoroughly with a putty knife and rubbing alcohol. Remove all old putty, silicone, and mineral deposits so the new faucet base sits flat. A clean surface prevents leaks and makes the new faucet easier to align.

How do you install the new kitchen faucet?

Read the manufacturer's instructions completely before you start—some faucets require you to attach supply lines or the mounting plate before threading tailpieces through the sink holes. If your faucet includes a deck plate (the flat base that covers extra holes), position it on the sink deck with a bead of plumber's putty or silicone underneath, then press it down to create a seal.

Feed the supply tubes and faucet tailpieces through the mounting holes. From underneath, thread the mounting nuts onto the tailpieces finger-tight, then tighten with the basin wrench—snug but not over-torqued (you can crack the sink deck or strip threads). Align the faucet so the spout faces straight forward before you fully tighten.

Connect the hot supply line to the left tailpiece and the cold to the right. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads two or three turns clockwise (looking at the threads from the end), then hand-tighten the coupling nuts. Use the adjustable wrench to snug them another half-turn—over-tightening can crack plastic or brass fittings. If you're also upgrading other fixtures, consider replacing a ceiling light fixture for a coordinated refresh.

How do you test for leaks and finish the job?

Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly, watching for drips at the coupling nuts and the base of the faucet. Run both hot and cold water for 30 seconds, then check under the sink again—common leak points are where the supply lines meet the tailpieces and where the faucet deck meets the sink. Tighten any weeping connections by a quarter-turn.

If you see water pooling around the base, the gasket or putty seal may be incomplete. Turn off the water, remove the faucet, add more putty or a new rubber gasket, and reinstall. Some faucets use O-rings instead of putty; confirm which type yours requires.

Wipe down the sink deck and cabinet interior, then dispose of the old faucet responsibly—many municipalities accept brass and metal at recycling centers. Save the instruction manual and any spare washers in a labeled envelope; future maintenance (replacing an aerator or cartridge) is easier when you have the model number and diagram on hand. Document the install date, faucet brand, and any observations in Okoniq Property Hub so you have a record if you need warranty service or want to reference the setup later. For other kitchen upgrades, see cabinet hardware upgrade for a low-cost cosmetic boost.

What if the faucet leaks after installation or the supply valves are stuck?

A leak at the base usually means the gasket is misaligned or the mounting nuts are loose—retighten from underneath. A leak at the supply connections suggests the Teflon tape wasn't applied correctly or the coupling nut isn't tight enough; add fresh tape and re-seat the connection.

If shutoff valves are frozen or leak when you turn them, replace them now before you install the new faucet. Shut off the main water line to the house (usually at the water meter or where the line enters the building), drain the system by opening a lower faucet, then unscrew the old valve and install a quarter-turn ball valve. This upgrade is worth the extra 30 minutes—modern ball valves last decades and close reliably.

For older homes with galvanized or cast iron drain pipes, inspect the P-trap and drain assembly while you're under the sink. Corroded threads or thin metal can crack when you bump them during faucet work; catch problems before they become leaks.

FAQ

How long does it take to replace a kitchen faucet?

Most replacements take 1-2 hours for a DIYer with basic tools. Professionals finish in 30-45 minutes, but the time stretches if shutoff valves are frozen, mounting nuts are corroded, or you need to clean decades of gunk off the sink deck.

Do I need to hire a plumber to replace a kitchen faucet?

No—replacing a faucet is a straightforward DIY job if your shutoff valves work and the sink deck is accessible. Call a plumber if valves need replacement, supply lines are soldered copper instead of threaded, or you discover a leak in the wall after turning the water back on.

Can I reuse the old supply lines when installing a new faucet?

Only if they're braided stainless steel in good condition with no kinks, corrosion, or age cracks. Rubber or vinyl lines older than five years should be replaced—they cost less than $10 per pair and prevent burst-line floods. Most new faucets include supply lines; use them.

What's the difference between plumber's putty and silicone for sealing a faucet?

Plumber's putty stays pliable and is easier to clean up, but it can stain porous surfaces like marble or granite. Silicone creates a waterproof bond and works on all materials, but it's permanent and harder to remove if you need to replace the faucet again. Check the faucet instructions—some manufacturers void the warranty if you use putty instead of the included rubber gasket.

Why is water still dripping from the faucet after I installed it correctly?

If the faucet drips from the spout after installation, trapped air in the lines usually clears within a few minutes of running the water. If it persists, the cartridge or valve inside the faucet may be defective—contact the manufacturer for a replacement under warranty. A leak from the base or supply connections is a tightening or seal issue, not a faucet defect.

This is educational information, not plumbing or safety advice. If shutoff valves are corroded, supply lines are soldered copper, or you're uncomfortable working under a sink, call a licensed plumber.