How to Re-Key and Secure a Unit Between Tenants (4 Steps)

TL;DR: Re-key every exterior lock when a tenant moves out — it costs $75–150 per unit and takes 30–60 minutes. Collect all keys before the final walk, inspect every lock and window, and log the re-key date in your turnover checklist to prove you secured the property if a future incident occurs.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

When a tenant moves out, you inherit every copy of the key they made — and every copy you don't know about. Re-keying between tenants is the fastest, cheapest way to erase that liability and start fresh with full control over who enters the property.

Okoniq Property Hub logs turnover tasks, re-key dates, and key-control records so you can prove the unit was secured if a future tenant reports an incident or an insurance claim asks for your turnover timeline.

What locks should you re-key between tenants?

Re-key every exterior door lock — front, back, side, garage entry, basement entry — that was accessible to the previous tenant. A locksmith changes the internal pins so old keys no longer work; the hardware stays in place. Typical cost is $20–30 per lock, and a full unit runs $75–150 depending on lock count and geography.

Do not re-key interior bedroom or bathroom privacy locks unless a tenant specifically requested a lock change mid-lease (in which case you should re-key it now to match the rest of the unit). Interior locks are privacy hardware, not security, and re-keying them adds cost without reducing liability.

If the property has a common laundry room or mailbox with a tenant-held key, add those to your re-key list if the tenant had a copy. For childproofing furniture tip-over or other safety upgrades that involve locking cabinets, those locks are incidental — only re-key if the outgoing tenant had the key.

When should you upgrade locks instead of re-keying?

Upgrade to new hardware if the lock cylinder is worn (key wiggles loosely), the deadbolt doesn't throw fully, the strike plate is loose, or the lock is 15+ years old and shows rust or interior corrosion. A standard Grade 2 deadbolt costs $30–60; a keyed entry knob is $20–40. Install both as a set on exterior doors.

Consider a keyless entry lock (keypad or smart lock) on the front door if you have frequent turnovers or short-term rentals. Keyless locks eliminate key retrieval liability entirely — you delete the old code and issue a new one. Budget $120–250 for a reliable keyless deadbolt (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure, Kwikset SmartCode).

If you're managing multiple units and want one key to open all of them, ask the locksmith to set up a master-key system during this re-key. It costs an extra $50–100 upfront but saves you from carrying six different keys and makes emergency access faster.

How do you retrieve all keys before the move-out?

Write key return into your lease as a condition of getting the full security deposit back. At the final walk-through, collect every key, fob, mailbox key, garage remote, and clubhouse pass the tenant received at move-in. Count them against your original inventory and note the count on the move-out checklist both parties sign.

If a tenant says they lost a key, charge a replacement fee ($25–50) and re-key anyway. A lost key means an unknown copy is in circulation, and "I'm sure I didn't make a copy" doesn't reduce your liability if the unit is burglarized three months later.

Do not accept keys mailed back after the tenant has moved out unless you've already scheduled the re-key for the day they arrive. Once the tenant has left, you've lost control of the timeline — re-key immediately and treat any mailed keys as a courtesy return that doesn't change your security posture.

Log the key-return date and re-key date in the same place you track the final walk. If you track ceiling water stain diagnoses or basement waterproofing timelines, add turnover security to that same record so you have a full property history in one place.

What else should you check during the turnover inspection?

Walk every window and sliding door to confirm the locks work and the sashes close fully. A loose window lock is an invitation, and a slider without a security bar can be lifted off the track. Replace broken window locks ($8–15 each) and add a dowel or security bar to sliders ($10) before the new tenant moves in.

Check that the deadbolt strike plate has 3-inch screws anchored into the door frame stud, not just the trim. If the strike plate wiggles or has short screws, replace them — a door with a weak strike can be kicked open even with the deadbolt thrown. This takes five minutes and costs $2 in hardware.

Test the garage door opener and re-program the remote codes if the unit includes garage access. Most openers have a "clear all codes" button that wipes every remote, then you re-pair only the remotes you control. The process is in the opener's manual or on a sticker inside the motor housing.

If the property has a security system or video doorbell, reset it to factory settings and remove the outgoing tenant's app access. For properties with smart thermostats, door locks, or leak detectors tied to the tenant's account, unlink those devices and re-pair them to your property account before the new tenant moves in. This is easier to do during turnover than troubleshooting a "previous owner still has access" call three weeks later.

How do you document the re-key for liability protection?

Take a photo of the locksmith's invoice showing the date, address, and locks serviced. Store it with the move-out inspection photos and lease file. If a break-in or theft occurs later and a tenant claims you failed to secure the property, that invoice is your proof you re-keyed on schedule.

Include a line in the new tenant's lease stating "All exterior locks were re-keyed on [date] prior to tenant occupancy." This sets the expectation that no prior keys will work and shifts responsibility for any copies made after that date to the new tenant.

For properties with cast iron drain pipe replacement or other major maintenance histories, your turnover documentation should live in the same folder — everything that proves you maintained the property properly if an insurance claim or lawsuit asks for records.

FAQ

How much does it cost to re-key a rental unit?

$75–150 for a typical single-family home or apartment with 2–4 exterior locks, assuming you call a locksmith. DIY re-key kits cost $12–20 per lock but require disassembly and can void some lock warranties if done incorrectly.

Can I use the same locks and just change the keys?

Yes — that's what re-keying is. The locksmith disassembles the cylinder, replaces the internal pins, and cuts new keys to match. The lock body, deadbolt, and handles stay in place. It takes 10–15 minutes per lock.

Do I need to re-key interior bedroom locks?

No, unless the tenant requested a lock change mid-lease. Interior privacy locks aren't security hardware — they have a push-button or turn-button release and can be opened with a paperclip. Re-keying them adds cost without reducing liability.

When should I replace locks instead of re-keying?

Replace if the lock is loose, the key wiggles, the deadbolt doesn't throw fully, the hardware is 15+ years old, or you see rust inside the cylinder. A worn lock can fail mid-throw or be picked more easily than a tight, modern deadbolt.

Should I give the new tenant more than two keys?

Yes — give them three keys (two for the primary residents, one spare) and log the count in the lease and move-in checklist. If they lose a key later and request a replacement, charge a service fee and update your key-count record so you know how many copies are in circulation at any time.

This is educational information, not legal or security advice. Consult your state landlord-tenant statutes for key-control and turnover security requirements, and talk to your insurance carrier if you have questions about liability for break-ins or theft between tenants.