How to Prep a Home Before an Extended Trip (7 Must-Do Steps)

TL;DR: Before leaving a home empty for weeks or months, turn off the main water supply, set the thermostat to 55-60°F in winter (above 80°F in summer), unplug non-essential appliances, test smoke and CO detectors, arrange mail hold or forwarding, notify a trusted neighbor or property manager, and inspect for leaks. These seven steps take 60-90 minutes and prevent the majority of unattended-property insurance claims.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

An empty home for two weeks invites different risks than an empty home for two months. Insurance claims from unattended properties—burst pipes, mold from a slow leak, vandalism—cost landlords and homeowners thousands. Most are preventable with a short pre-departure checklist.

Okoniq Property Hub logs each prep task with a date stamp so you have proof you turned off the water or tested the alarms before leaving—useful if an adjuster asks later.

Should I turn off the main water supply before a long trip?

Yes, and it's the single highest-impact step. A pinhole leak in a supply line or a toilet fill valve that sticks open can dump 50-100 gallons per day. Over a month, that's a flooded basement and a five-figure remediation bill.

Where to find the main shut-off: Usually near where the water line enters the house—basement, crawlspace, utility closet, or outside at the meter. Turn the valve clockwise until it stops. If the valve is stiff or weeping, replace it before you go.

After shutting off the main, open one faucet on the lowest floor to relieve residual pressure. Leave it open while you're gone. If you have a sprinkler system on a separate valve, decide whether to leave that on or drain the lines—consult your sprinkler manual for winterization steps if you'll be gone past the first freeze.

For extended winter absences (more than two weeks when temperatures drop below 20°F), some owners also drain water heaters and pour RV antifreeze into sink traps and toilet bowls to prevent freeze damage. If you're unsure whether your climate warrants that, a local plumber can advise.

One internal link: AC condensate drain lines can also clog and overflow during summer absences—check and clear that line before leaving if your HVAC will run unattended.

What thermostat setting should I use when the house is empty?

Winter: Set the thermostat to 55-60°F. This prevents frozen pipes in exterior walls and under-insulated crawlspaces without burning money. Never turn heat off completely—a January cold snap can freeze pipes in 24-48 hours if indoor temps drop into the 30s.

Summer: If you have air conditioning and can afford to run it, set the thermostat to 80-85°F to control humidity and prevent mold. If you're willing to risk higher indoor humidity, you can turn the AC off entirely, but open interior doors to improve airflow and reduce hot spots. In humid climates (Gulf Coast, Southeast), a basement dehumidifier left running can prevent mold on walls and stored belongings.

Shoulder seasons (spring, fall): If outdoor temps will stay between 40-75°F, you may leave HVAC off and open a few windows an inch for passive ventilation—but only if crime risk is low and you trust your neighbors to notice anything unusual.

Smart thermostats (Nest, Ecobee, Honeywell Home) let you monitor indoor temperature remotely and adjust if a heat wave or cold snap arrives. Some send alerts if the temperature drops below a threshold you set—useful insurance against a furnace failure while you're away.

Which appliances should I unplug and which should stay on?

Unplug these:

• Coffee makers, toasters, microwaves—anything with a heating element that could short and start a fire.
• Computers, TVs, gaming consoles—lightning strikes cause surges even when the device is off.
• Space heaters, hair dryers, curling irons—if you forgot one was on, unplugging everything eliminates the risk.

Leave plugged in:

• Refrigerator and freezer (unless you're emptying and defrosting them—see below).
• Sump pump, if you have one—a flooded basement costs more than a month of standby power.
• Security system, smart locks, and any cameras or motion sensors.
• Garage door opener, if a neighbor or property manager has the code.

Refrigerator and freezer decision: If you'll be gone more than two months and can empty them completely, unplug, defrost, prop the doors open with towels to prevent mildew, and clean the interior with baking soda. For trips under two months, leave them running with a box of baking soda inside to control odors. Remove perishables that will spoil—milk, produce, deli meat—but leave pantry staples and condiments.

Turn off the icemaker (most have a lever or switch) to prevent a stuck fill valve from leaking onto the floor. If your fridge has a water line, some owners also turn off the supply valve behind the unit as a backup—one more potential leak point eliminated.

What safety checks should I do before leaving?

Smoke and CO detectors: Press the test button on each unit. If the chirp is weak or absent, replace the battery. If the unit is more than 10 years old (check the manufacture date on the back), replace it—sensors degrade. Dead batteries are the top reason detectors fail, and a small kitchen fire can total a house if no one's there to notice.

Door and window locks: Walk every exterior door and window. Lock them, then tug to confirm. Sliding glass doors: drop a wooden dowel in the track as a backup. Ground-floor windows in areas with higher crime: consider temporary window bars or security film.

Outdoor lighting: Put porch and pathway lights on timers or photocells so the house doesn't look dark every night. A porch light on from dusk to 11 PM signals "someone's home." If you have smart bulbs, schedule a livingroom lamp to turn on and off at varying times.

Garage door: Close it and unplug the opener if no one will need access. Test that the manual release works (pull the red cord) so a neighbor can open it manually in an emergency.

Gutter and downspout check: If it's fall or spring, clear gutters so a heavy rain doesn't overflow and seep into the foundation. Clogged gutters during a weeklong storm can cause basement waterproofing failures.

Should I arrange for someone to check the house while I'm gone?

Yes, especially for absences longer than two weeks. Options:

Trusted neighbor: Ask them to walk through once a week—check for leaks, strange smells, mail pileup, broken windows. Offer to return the favor or pay $20-30 per visit. Give them a key and your phone number. Tell them where the main water shut-off and electrical panel are in case of emergency.

Property manager or house-sitter: If you own a rental and it's vacant, your property manager may already include periodic inspections. If you're a homeowner, platforms like TrustedHousesitters connect travelers with sitters who stay in your home (usually in exchange for free lodging plus a small fee). Sitters water plants, collect mail, and provide a lived-in presence that deters break-ins.

What to ask them to check:

• No water on floors or ceilings
• No strange odors (gas, mold, rot)
• HVAC is running (listen for the furnace or AC)
• No broken windows or forced doors
• Mail and packages brought inside

Log each visit in Okoniq with a date and a note—"neighbor checked, all clear"—so you have a record if an insurance claim arises later.

How do I handle mail and deliveries?

Mail: Submit a hold request at USPS.com—free for up to 30 days. Mail resumes delivery the day after your return date. For trips longer than 30 days, forward mail to a trusted friend or family member, or rent a PO box short-term.

Packages: If you know a package is coming, ship it to your workplace or a neighbor's address. UPS and FedEx offer vacation holds (UPS My Choice, FedEx Delivery Manager)—free for most accounts. Amazon: pause deliveries in your account settings or ship to an Amazon Locker.

Newspapers and local circulars: Cancel or pause delivery—an uncollected stack on the driveway is a "no one's home" billboard.

What final walkthrough should I do on departure day?

An hour before leaving, walk the house top to bottom:

1. Kitchen: Unplug countertop appliances. Empty the trash and garbage disposal (rotting food attracts pests). Wipe down counters. Turn off the dishwasher if mid-cycle.
2. Bathrooms: Flush toilets (so you know they're not running). Close shower curtains to reduce mildew. If you've shut off water, pour a cup of RV antifreeze in each sink trap and toilet bowl to prevent sewer gases from evaporating the trap seal.
3. Laundry: Remove wet clothes from the washer—mold grows in 24-48 hours. Turn off the water supply valves to the washer.
4. Bedrooms and living areas: Unplug lamps, fans, electronics. Close blinds or drapes halfway—full blackout looks vacant, but open blinds invite window-shoppers.
5. Basement and attic: Check for leaks around attic ventilation openings and basement windows. If you've had past attic mold issues, this is when you'd set a dehumidifier or confirm the attic fan works.
6. Garage: Unplug tools. Lock interior door to the house. Disconnect garage door opener if no one needs access.
7. Exterior: Close and lock all gates. Bring in garbage and recycling bins. Coil hoses and shut off exterior faucets if it's fall or winter.

Take a photo of each room on your phone—date-stamped proof of how you left things. If a claim arises, insurers sometimes ask for evidence you secured the property.

FAQ

How long can I leave a house unattended without telling my insurance company?

Most homeowner policies require notice if the home will be vacant more than 30-60 consecutive days—check your policy's "vacancy clause." If you don't notify the insurer and a claim occurs, they may deny coverage. Call your agent before a long trip to confirm the threshold and whether you need a vacant-home endorsement.

Should I leave water heater on or off during a two-month absence?

Leave it on but turn the thermostat to "vacation" mode (usually 50-60°F) if your unit has that setting—prevents freezing and bacteria growth without heating a full tank. If your model lacks vacation mode, lower the dial to the lowest setting. Never turn a gas water heater fully off unless you're comfortable re-lighting the pilot yourself or paying a plumber to do it when you return.

Can I winterize a house in October if I'll be gone until March?

Yes—drain all water lines, pour antifreeze in traps and toilets, shut off and drain the water heater, and set the furnace to 55°F. This is standard for seasonal cottages. Hire a plumber if you've never done it—one missed fixture can freeze and burst. Some owners also blow out the irrigation system with compressed air and cover HVAC condensers. Document every step in Okoniq so the next year you have a checklist.

What if I forget to do something and realize it after I've left?

Call your trusted neighbor or property manager and ask them to handle it—turn off water, unplug an appliance, check a window. If no one has a key, some locksmiths offer emergency access (you'll need to prove ownership). For minor oversights—a light left on, a faucet dripping slowly—the risk is usually low, but a quick return trip may be worth it if the item is a fire or flood hazard.

Do I need to notify local police that the house will be empty?

Some police departments offer vacation watch programs—officers drive by periodically and check for suspicious activity. Call the non-emergency number and ask. It's free and takes five minutes. Even if your town doesn't have a formal program, letting dispatch know you'll be away can speed response if a neighbor calls in a concern.

This is educational information, not legal or insurance advice. Check your homeowner or landlord policy for vacancy clauses and required notifications. For properties in freeze-prone climates, consult a local plumber about winterization if you're unsure.