How to Clean and Seal a Paver Walkway in 5 Steps

TL;DR: Clean pavers with a pressure washer (1,500-2,000 PSI), let them dry 24-48 hours, refill joints with polymeric sand, then apply a penetrating sealer. Properly sealed pavers resist oil stains, moss growth, and joint-sand washout for 3-5 years between treatments.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

Paver walkways look great when new but turn gray, mossy, and uneven after a few seasons if you don't maintain them. The joint sand washes out, weeds grow through, and oil or rust stains set in permanently. Cleaning and sealing every 3-5 years stops all three problems and keeps the walkway looking sharp.

Okoniq Property Hub helps you log when you last sealed your pavers and set a reminder for the next treatment so you never miss the window.

What tools and materials do you need to clean and seal pavers?

You'll need a pressure washer rated for 1,500-2,000 PSI (not the 3,000+ PSI models used for stripping paint), a stiff-bristle push broom, polymeric joint sand to replace what washes out, and a penetrating acrylic sealer designed for concrete pavers. Plan to rent the pressure washer if you don't own one — half-day rental costs $40-70 at most hardware stores.

For stain pre-treatment, keep a concrete degreaser on hand for oil spots and an oxalic acid cleaner for rust or mineral deposits. Both are sold at masonry supply stores and home centers in concentrate form. Mix them in a garden sprayer, apply directly to stains, scrub with a deck brush, and let sit 10-15 minutes before pressure washing.

The sealer type matters: water-based penetrating sealers soak into the paver surface and don't leave a plastic-looking shine, while solvent-based topical sealers sit on top and give a wet look. Most owner-operators prefer the matte finish of a penetrating sealer because it wears evenly and doesn't peel. Budget $0.12-0.18 per square foot for a quality sealer — a 5-gallon pail covers about 1,500-2,000 square feet depending on porosity.

How do you pressure wash pavers without damaging them?

Set the pressure washer to 1,500-2,000 PSI and use a 25-degree nozzle tip to spread the stream. Hold the wand 12-18 inches from the surface and sweep in overlapping passes, moving with the direction of the walkway to avoid blasting sand out of the joints. Work in 4-foot sections so you can see where you've cleaned.

If the pavers are very dirty, pre-wet the surface with plain water, apply diluted concrete cleaner from a pump sprayer, scrub with a stiff push broom, wait 10 minutes, then pressure wash. This two-step method lifts embedded dirt and algae that pressure alone won't touch. Avoid the red zero-degree nozzle — it concentrates 2,000 PSI into a pencil-point stream that can etch the paver face or gouge joint sand out in seconds.

After washing, inspect the joints for gaps wider than ¼ inch. If you see bare spots or low sand, you'll need to refill them before sealing. Letting water pool in empty joints accelerates freeze-thaw damage in cold climates and invites weeds in warm ones. For steps on fixing that, bathroom tile regrouting DIY principles apply here too — fill the void, compact it, then seal the surface.

Why does joint sand matter and how do you replace it?

Joint sand locks the pavers together laterally so they don't shift when you walk on them. Standard mason sand works initially but washes out in heavy rain or when you pressure wash. Polymeric sand — a blend of fine sand and polymer binders — hardens when wet and stays in place for years.

To refill joints, wait until the pavers are completely dry (24-48 hours after washing on a sunny week). Pour polymeric sand over the walkway, sweep it into the joints with a push broom, then tap the pavers with a rubber mallet to settle the sand. Repeat until joints are full to within ⅛ inch of the paver surface. Sweep off all excess — any sand left on the paver face will bond to it when you activate the polymers.

Mist the walkway lightly with a garden hose using a fine spray nozzle, just enough to wet the joint sand without washing it out. The polymers activate on contact with water and harden in 24 hours. Don't oversoak or you'll wash the binder away before it sets. After the joints cure, you're ready to seal.

What's the right way to apply paver sealer?

Apply sealer when air and surface temperatures are between 50°F and 90°F and no rain is forecast for 24 hours. Pour sealer into a paint tray and use a ¾-inch nap roller on a pole handle to spread it in thin, even coats. Roll in one direction, then cross-roll perpendicular to catch any missed spots. Work in 4×4-foot sections so you can keep a wet edge.

Most penetrating sealers require two coats applied 2-4 hours apart. The first coat soaks in and may look uneven — that's normal. The second coat evens out the coverage and maxes out the paver's absorption. Don't over-apply; pooling sealer takes days to cure and leaves a cloudy film. If you see puddles, back-roll immediately to spread them out.

Stay off the walkway for 24 hours after the final coat. Full cure takes 72 hours in warm weather, longer in cool or humid conditions. Once cured, the sealer will darken the paver color slightly (the "wet look" even with a matte sealer) and bead water on the surface. Reseal every 3-5 years or when water stops beading and stains start setting in again. For other outdoor surfaces that need seasonal care, see closing a seasonal home for winter for freeze-protection tips.

How do you maintain sealed pavers between treatments?

Sweep the walkway weekly to prevent dirt buildup and hose it down monthly to wash away surface grime before it bonds. If you spill oil or grease, blot it immediately with an absorbent like cat litter, then scrub with a concrete degreaser — sealed pavers resist staining but aren't stain-proof if you let the spill sit.

Check the joints each spring for cracks or gaps. If you see a section where the polymeric sand has cracked, dig it out with a flathead screwdriver, refill with fresh polymeric sand, and mist to reactivate. Spot repairs like this take 15 minutes and prevent a small problem from spreading across the walkway.

Pull weeds as soon as you see them — even polymeric joints can let a determined weed through if the root finds a crack. If moss or algae appear in shaded sections, spray those areas with a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water), scrub, and rinse. Keeping the walkway clean between sealings doubles the life of each treatment.

FAQ

How long does paver sealer last?

Penetrating sealers last 3-5 years in moderate climates with normal foot traffic. High-traffic areas or harsh winters (freeze-thaw cycles, road salt exposure) shorten that to 2-3 years. Reseal when water stops beading on the surface or stains start penetrating.

Can you seal pavers without removing old sealer?

Yes, if the old sealer is still bonded and not peeling. Pressure wash to clean the surface, let it dry, then apply a compatible new coat. If the old sealer is flaking or has a glossy topical finish, you'll need to strip it with a chemical stripper before resealing.

What's the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?

Polymeric sand contains polymer binders that harden when wet, locking pavers together and resisting washout and weed growth. Regular mason sand washes out in rain and doesn't bind, so it requires frequent refilling. Polymeric sand costs about three times as much but lasts years longer.

Do you have to seal pavers?

No, but unsealed pavers absorb oil, rust, and organic stains permanently and lose joint sand faster, which lets them shift and settle unevenly. Sealing extends paver life by 50% or more and makes maintenance easier. If you're fine with a weathered look and don't mind refilling joints often, you can skip it.

Can you use a regular garden hose instead of a pressure washer?

A garden hose won't remove embedded dirt, algae, or old sealer residue — you need 1,500+ PSI to clean effectively. If the pavers are only lightly dusty and you're maintaining them annually, a stiff broom and hose may be enough, but you'll still need to pressure wash before sealing for proper adhesion.

This is educational information, not professional advice. Consult a licensed mason or paver installer if your walkway has structural issues like sinking sections, wide cracks, or base failure before sealing.