How to Adjust a Garage Door That Closes Unevenly (4 Fixes)

TL;DR: When a garage door closes unevenly, one side touching the floor before the other, the cause is usually unequal spring tension or a misaligned track. Adjusting the spring tension on the low side or loosening and realigning track brackets solves 95% of cases. Always disconnect the opener before working on springs or tracks.

_Last reviewed: July 2026 · 6 min read_

A garage door that tilts or drags on one side wears out rollers faster, stresses the opener motor, and leaves gaps for weather and pests. Most landlords spot this during seasonal walkthroughs or after a tenant mentions the door "sounds wrong." The fix is straightforward if you understand which component controls what.

Okoniq Property Hub logs garage door maintenance checks and tracks adjustment dates so you can see patterns across properties and schedule tune-ups before a cable snaps or a spring breaks.

Why does a garage door close unevenly in the first place?

A garage door hangs on two spring-and-cable assemblies (torsion springs above the door or extension springs on the sides) and rides in two vertical tracks. When one spring loses tension—either from age, temperature swings, or a manufacturing defect—that side lifts less force, and the door tilts toward the weak side. Similarly, if a track bracket shifts even ¼ inch out of plumb, the door binds on that side and appears to close unevenly.

Torsion springs last 10,000–15,000 cycles (roughly 7–10 years for a typical two-car garage used twice a day). Extension springs last slightly less. If the door was installed in 2015 and you're seeing uneven closure in 2025, spring fatigue is the leading suspect. A misaligned track usually follows an impact—someone backed into the door frame or a heavy item leaned against the track.

Check the obvious first: with the door closed, crouch at the front and sight along the bottom edge. If one side sits ½ inch or more above the floor, you have uneven closure. Open the door halfway and release it (with the opener disconnected). If it drifts down, springs are weak. If it binds or jerks, suspect the tracks.

How do I adjust garage door spring tension safely?

Disconnect the opener first. Pull the red emergency release cord so the trolley disengages. This prevents the motor from fighting you mid-adjustment and keeps the door from slamming if a spring snaps.

For torsion springs (the horizontal rod above the door with one or two springs wound around it), look for the winding cone on each spring end—a circular metal disc with four holes. Using two solid-steel winding bars (never a screwdriver or pry bar), insert a bar into one hole, unwind the spring ¼ turn (counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten), hold tension with the second bar, move the first bar to the next hole, and repeat. To fix uneven closure, add ¼ to ½ turn on the low side's spring. Test the door balance after each ¼ turn.

For extension springs (springs that run parallel to the horizontal track on each side), tension is controlled by moving the S-hook on the cable to a lower hole on the track bracket. Clamp locking pliers on the track below the bottom roller so the door can't fall, then unhook the cable, move the S-hook down one hole (which adds tension), and reattach. Never adjust extension springs with the door open more than a foot—stored energy in a stretched spring can yank the hook through your hand.

If a spring is visibly corroded, has a gap in the coils, or is older than 10 years, replace both springs at the same time. Springs are sold in matched pairs by wire gauge, inside diameter, and length. A single new spring paired with an old one will create the same imbalance within months. For more maintenance tracking tips across properties, see how to diagnose a ceiling water stain for a similar root-cause checklist approach.

How do I realign garage door tracks?

With the door open 3–4 feet, inspect the vertical tracks on both sides. Each track is held by 3–4 brackets bolted to the wall framing. Loosen the bolts on the brackets (they're usually ⅜- or 7/16-inch hex heads) just enough that the track can shift but still supports the door weight. Use a 4-foot level to check plumb on the vertical section of each track. Tap the track gently with a rubber mallet until the bubble centers, then snug the bolts finger-tight.

Next, check that both tracks are the same distance from the door edge at the top, middle, and bottom. Measure from the inside edge of the track to the door edge; the distance should be identical on both sides (typically 1½ to 2 inches). If one track is closer, loosen its brackets and shift it outward until measurements match.

Raise and lower the door by hand (opener still disconnected) to confirm smooth travel. If you hear scraping, the roller flanges are rubbing the track lip—loosen the brackets again and shift the track outward another ⅛ inch. Once the door glides quietly, tighten all bracket bolts to 15–20 ft-lbs (snug but not crushing the track).

For homes with metal siding or block walls, track brackets sometimes pull loose over time. If a bracket hole is wallowed out, drill a new pilot hole 1 inch above or below the old one and install a ¼-inch lag screw with a washer. Track alignment is similar in principle to attic ventilation balance—small shifts compound into big problems if ignored.

How do I adjust the garage door opener's limit switches?

If the door closes evenly when you lower it manually but tilts when the opener runs, the down-limit switch is stopping the motor before the door fully seats. Locate the limit adjustment screws on the opener's motor housing (usually marked "up" and "down" or with arrow symbols). Turn the down-limit screw clockwise ¼ turn to allow the door to travel slightly farther before the motor cuts off. Test by closing the door with the remote. Repeat in ¼-turn increments until the door presses the weather seal flat against the floor on both sides.

If the door reverses immediately after touching the floor, the force-adjustment dial (often marked "force" or "sensitivity") is set too light. Increase the down-force setting by turning the dial clockwise one notch. The door should seat firmly but reverse if it encounters a 2×4 laid flat on the floor—this is the UL 325 safety standard.

Newer openers with photo-eye sensors can also cause uneven closure if one sensor is misaligned. The LEDs on both sensors must glow solid (not blinking). Loosen the wing nuts on the sensor brackets, adjust until the beams align, and retighten. For electrical troubleshooting context, see childproofing electrical outlets for safe work near wiring.

What if the door still closes unevenly after adjustments?

Inspect the rollers. Worn or seized rollers drag instead of roll, mimicking a track misalignment. Nylon rollers last 10–15 years; steel rollers with loose bearings last half that. Replace rollers by opening the door, removing the hinge bolt that holds the roller bracket, sliding out the old roller, and inserting a new one. Do this one roller at a time so the door stays supported.

Check for a bent horizontal track section. If the curved portion where the vertical track transitions to horizontal has a kink, the door will jam at that point. Minor kinks (less than ⅛ inch) can be straightened with a C-clamp and wood blocks; larger bends require a new track section.

Finally, confirm the door itself isn't warped. Lay a straight 8-foot board across the inside face of the door (horizontally at the mid-panel). If the board rocks or you see light gaps, the door panels have twisted—common in wood doors exposed to moisture or in uninsulated steel doors after years of thermal cycling. A warped door won't seal evenly no matter how well you adjust springs and tracks. Replacement is the only fix.

FAQ

How often should I lubricate garage door springs and tracks?

Every 6 months, spray white lithium grease on torsion springs, roller bearings, hinges, and the top of the track where rollers contact. Avoid WD-40—it's a solvent, not a lubricant, and attracts dust. Lubrication extends spring life by 20–30% and keeps the door quiet.

Can I adjust only one spring if the other looks fine?

Yes, but expect to adjust again within a year. Springs age together; if one weakened from 10,000 cycles, the other has the same wear. Adjusting one spring restores balance temporarily, but replacing both avoids a callback when the second spring fails months later.

Why does my garage door close unevenly only in winter?

Cold contracts metal, reducing spring tension by 5–10%. If springs are already near end-of-life, winter temps push them below the threshold needed to balance the door. Add ¼ turn on both springs in October and remove it in April, or replace the springs if they're older than 8 years.

How do I know if the problem is the opener or the door itself?

Disconnect the opener (pull the red cord) and manually lower the door. If it closes evenly and stays put at any height, the springs and tracks are fine—adjust the opener's limits and force. If the door drifts down or tilts when you let go, the springs or tracks need work.

This is educational information, not professional installation advice. If a spring breaks or you see frayed cables, call a licensed garage door tech—spring replacement under tension can cause serious injury.