Buying New Construction: 12 Questions to Ask Your Builder

TL;DR: Ask about warranty length (structural coverage is usually 10 years, workmanship 1-2 years), who pays for a third-party inspection, whether the electrical panel is 200-amp, and how change orders get priced before you sign anything. Get every answer in writing and attached to the purchase contract, not just spoken during the walkthrough.

_Last reviewed: August 2026 · 8 min read_

Buying a brand-new house feels like it should be simpler than buying a resale, but new construction has its own set of traps. Builders build fast, subcontractors rotate, and the person selling you the home isn't always the person who'll answer your calls after closing.

Okoniq Property Hub helps homeowners log warranty dates, inspection reports, and builder contact details in one place so nothing gets lost between closing day and the first repair call.

What should you ask about the builder's warranty?

Ask exactly what's covered, for how long, and who honors it if the builder goes out of business. Most production builders offer a tiered warranty: 1 year on workmanship and materials (drywall cracks, paint, doors sticking), 2 years on major systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC), and 10 years on structural defects like foundation and framing. That 10-year structural warranty is often backed by a third-party insurer, not the builder directly, so ask for the name of that insurer and confirm it's active.

Get the warranty document before closing, not after. If the builder says "it's standard, don't worry," that's your cue to ask for it in writing. Also ask what voids the warranty. Some builders won't honor foundation claims if you've altered grading or added a pool within the coverage period.

Who's checking the work before you move in?

You should hire your own inspector, separate from the builder's final walkthrough, ideally at two points: pre-drywall and pre-closing. A pre-drywall inspection lets an independent inspector see the framing, wiring, and plumbing before it's sealed behind walls. This is the only window to catch a mis-sized electrical panel or missing insulation without cutting into finished walls later.

Ask the builder directly whether they'll allow a third-party inspector on site and at what stage. Reputable builders say yes without hesitation. If a builder resists, treat that as a red flag. During the walkthrough, check the electrical service size, since 100 vs 200 amp service makes a real difference if you plan to add an EV charger, hot tub, or workshop down the road. Many new builds still spec 100-amp panels to save cost, which is barely enough for a modern home.

What should you ask about the systems you can't see?

You need specifics on HVAC sizing, drainage grading, and attic ventilation, not just brand names. Ask for the HVAC load calculation (Manual J), not just the tonnage, since an oversized or undersized unit will run inefficiently for the life of the house. Ask how the lot is graded and where water drains away from the foundation. Builders sometimes finish grading fast right before closing, and improper slope shows up as pooling water within the first year, similar to the issues covered in 5 drainage jobs you're forgetting before rainy season.

Attic ventilation is another spot builders sometimes shortcut. Ask how many soffit and ridge vents were installed and whether they were calculated for the attic's square footage. Poor ventilation shows up two or three years later as premature shingle aging, the kind of problem outlined in 5 signs your attic ventilation is failing your roof.

| Question Area | Ask This | Why It Matters | |---|---|---| | HVAC | "Can I see the Manual J load calc?" | Prevents an oversized/undersized unit and high bills | | Grading | "Where does surface water go?" | Prevents foundation and basement moisture later | | Electrical | "Is this a 100 or 200-amp panel?" | Determines future EV charger, appliance capacity | | Ventilation | "How many vents, calculated how?" | Prevents early roof and attic damage |

What should you ask about price and change orders?

You need a fixed price for the base contract and a clear written process for every change order, because upgrades and last-minute changes are where new-construction budgets blow up. Ask the builder for a line-item breakdown of what's included in the base price versus what counts as an upgrade. Flooring, countertops, and appliance packages are common places where the "standard" option shown in the model home isn't what's in your contract.

Ask how change orders are priced and whether there's a deadline after which changes aren't allowed. Builders typically lock in structural changes 30 to 60 days before framing starts. A change requested after that window can cost significantly more or delay closing by weeks. Also ask what happens to your earnest money if the closing date slips past a certain point, since delays of 60 to 90 days aren't unusual in new construction right now.

What should you check right after closing?

Your first year in a new home is the warranty clock running, so document everything as it appears. Walk every room monthly for the first year and note cracks, sticking doors, or settling, since most builders require a written punch list submitted before the 11-month mark to use the 1-year workmanship warranty. Foundation settling in year one is common and usually cosmetic, but the difference between a hairline crack and a structural one is worth knowing, covered in 5 foundation cracks that are serious (and 3 that aren't).

Also do a spring foundation check even in a brand-new home. New concrete cures for up to a year, and the first freeze-thaw cycle can reveal settling that wasn't visible at closing. The seasonal checklist in 5 foundation checks you're forgetting every spring applies to new builds too, not just older homes.

FAQ

How long is a typical new construction home warranty?

Most builders offer 1 year on workmanship, 2 years on major mechanical systems like plumbing and HVAC, and 10 years on structural elements such as the foundation and framing, though exact terms vary by builder and state.

Should I hire my own home inspector for new construction?

Yes. A pre-drywall inspection around framing stage and a separate pre-closing inspection typically cost $300 to $600 combined and can catch electrical, plumbing, or insulation issues before they're sealed behind walls.

What's the difference between a builder's warranty and a home warranty I buy myself?

The builder's warranty covers construction defects for a set number of years at no extra cost, while a purchased home warranty covers appliance and system breakdowns regardless of cause, usually for an annual fee of $400 to $700.

How much do change orders typically add to the price of a new build?

Change orders can add anywhere from 10% to 25% to the base contract price depending on how many upgrades you choose and how late in the build you request them.

Is it normal for a new construction closing date to get pushed back?

Yes, delays of 30 to 90 days are common due to permitting, material delays, or weather, so ask upfront what protections you have in the contract if the closing date slips significantly.

This is educational information, not legal or financial advice. Consult a real estate attorney to review your purchase contract and warranty terms before signing.